Mono points
are all the rage now and for good reason. In the mountains we prefer dual
point crampons on technical routes though (more later).
Mono points
allow a foot to twist on a small hold without a second point to lever it off.
Any dual point crampon will not allow a foot to twist in one direction without
the other point hitting the wall. If the foot is twisted beyond that the point
not on the hold will push against the wall and lever the other point off the
hold.
Dual points
are easier to learn in and climbers like the late great Steve Garvey could
do routes in them that we can only dream of (San Amis - a route he called
a grade 6 - still has not been repeated). Maybe we get a little to caught
up in this discussion. That said, for us that aspire to Steve's greatness
the mono point seems to add, if nothing else, potential to our abilities.
Mono points
work really well in brutally cold ice. The point can be placed gently in the
placement made by an ice tool. That said dual points can feel more secure
with a little kicking.
Dual points
are more stable if you like to stand up on your toes a bit (to far and you
lever the front points out of the ice) but if you keep your heels low the
secondary front points on a mono point crampon have a tripod effect and are
quite stable.
Generally, most
intermediate climbers will find a dual point crampon more versatile and perform
as well as a mono on pure ice. If you are about to delve in the realm of mixed
climbing you may want to try a mono point.
If you are starting
to climb hard mixed routes see if someone you know will loan you some mono
point crampons. Remember to keep the heals down while on ice or you will hate
them.